Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)Having surfed more than 40 years, nothing captures my interest better than a good story about riding waves. I just read this book on Cape Hatteras, NC while on vacation surfing waves generated by Hurricanes Alex and Charley. Still, it wasn't just my personal environment that made this book perfect. It woulda had the same impact if I'd read it in February in Montana. And never been in the ocean.
The novel will instantly stand as one of the Top Five all-time surfing stories. There is a terrific underlying current in the book, which non-surfers might neither understand nor be aware of. Mr. Nunn, defines his characters in an amazing way, using surfing's wide divide between old school (my style) and the new generation (my sons' outlook). Approaches to the waves are almost polar, even while the sport's inherent values and respect for tradition are from the same template.
On the surface, this novel also is a who-done-it thriller that shows Mr. Nunn is a genuinely exceptional writer who displays equal parts Elmore Leonard, Hunter S. Thompson, and John Grisham.
Intricate details, believeable characters, and conversational dialogue add up to a read that moves along as quickly and with as much unpredictability as a 20-foot storm wave.
Cowabunga, old-timers! Rip and slash, dudes! Either way, get up on it, and enjoy the ride.
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